Imagine spending almost two weeks riding your bike. The first half through rugged bushland, the second half on sandy beaches. Here’s our account of this wonderful experience.
Wayne’s original plan was to take three or four days off and ride his bike from Brisbane to Maryborough, then catch the train back. He talked with a few of us about it. We convinced him to forget about catching the train – why not ride up there and back again?
Our aim was to ride northwards through bushland, then ride south along the beach. It would take at least ten days.
To save weight we’d stay at pubs, motels and caravan parks along the way. This meant we wouldn’t have to carry camping gear on the bikes.
To avoid traffic we’d start at Beerburrum, a small town with a railway station with lots of tracks leading off into the forests of the Glasshouse Mountains, do a big loop up to Maryborough, then finish at Ningi, near Bribie Island, over seven hundred kilometres later.
Justin – Day 1
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Justin heard of our plans, and decided to go one better.
He’d start his ride at Ipswich, two days earlier than the rest of us. He’d ride up the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail, then head east via Woodford to meet us at Beerwah on the third day.
He says:
At the end of my street is a train station. I could have easily taken the two-hour train trip to Beerburrum to the start of the ride. But, a more appealing option came to mind: The Brisbane Valley Rail Trail (BVRT). This would extend my trip by another two days, with stop-overs at Toogoolawah and Beerwah. I would meet the rest of the group at the start of their ride.
Being a weekday, I was picturing a quiet trail. I was wrong. The trail was well used by morning cyclists and runners, a couple of horse riders and two other touring cyclists who were completing parts of the trail.
Justin: Josh ‘The Bear’ was also on the trail. He is known as the Google Trekker, and is currently photographing local hiking trails, cycling paths and National Parks. He was keen to have a ride on my fat bike whilst I had a chat with Tanya from “Friends of the BVRT”.
Justin: A local cycling mate joined the journey for about half of the day. It was great to have Ral’s company. We stopped just short of Mount Hallen to have a chat with some tourists who were riding horses back from Yarraman to Coominya.
Justin: I continued on to Toogoolawah, admiring some of the old railway memorabilia, steam boilers and stations.
Justin: The Exchange Pub at Toogoolawah was home for the night. The meals and accommodation here are excellent and I even had a decent outlook from the balcony.
Total climbing: 730 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 07:04:46
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Justin – Day 2
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Justin: Today was long. There was a lot of climbing to make it to Beerwah. I used Gregors Creek Road to get to Kilcoy, this was a very scenic route to take, although it was on sealed road. I had been warned of the hilly terrain in the nearby Deer Reserve National Park and decided to avoid that.
Justin: I stopped to enjoy the view from the Kilcoy Racetrack commentators stand…
…and some timber artwork along Villeneuve Road.
Justin: After Woodford I reached the end the of the sealed road.
Justin: I enjoyed riding these hilly, muddy and never-ending trails.
Total climbing: 1250 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 08:55:03
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Main Group – Day 1
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We met at Beerburrum Station.
Darb and Wayne parked their cars at Ningi, about twenty kilometres away. They’d come in handy sometime next week at the end of our ride when we wanted to go home
Some bikes were loaded up for a long multi-day ride.
Others, like Calum, rode light. They were just riding with us for part of the day, and would leave us in the afternoon.
We left Beerburrum, pointing the bikes north through vast pine plantations…
…emerging on the edge of some huge strawberry farms near Beerwah.
The working forest continually changes. Sometimes a patch of tall pines will be harvested, creating surprising new views.
On Hapgood Road we saw all of the Glasshouse Mountains in one sweep, unobscured by plantations.
The terrain changed as we moved from State Forest into National Park.
The pines disappeared, replaced with she-oaks, paperbarks and tall eucalypts.
At this point our group split in two…
…the multi-day riders continued north, while the day-trippers started heading back to Beerburrum via Ewen Maddock Dam.
With less people in the homeward-bound group, the pace was much more relaxed. Russel took a break to set up a makeshift office and answer some text messages.
We relaxed as we eased along flat terrain and straight tracks back to the the starting point.
Total climbing: 939 m
Average temperature: 21.7
Total time: 05:44:30
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We rode about 68 kilometres in just under six hours including breaks.
This loop rates six out of ten on the tough-o-meter.
Meanwhile the multi-day riders continued north through Mooloola River National Park.
This vast floodplain stretches east from the Bruce Highway to Kawana on the coast.
Although it has some lush patches of forest, it floods easily, leaving long muddy puddles in some of the tracks.
The large the fat-bikes tyres made it easier to splash through these sections.
The riders continued north, crossing the Maroochy River.
When I had originally spoken with Darb and Wayne about this section of the ride, I had suggested they follow Finland Road north towards Coolum. When I had ridden it several years earlier, it was a pleasant dirt track running through quiet bushy paddocks.
Unfortunately, the road has recently been blocked off for a new expansion of the Sunshine Coast Airport.
This required a large detour.
Darb said “We had to do a bit of bush bashing and wading through water to get back on track.”
The lop-sided slope of Mount Ninderry is visible from many vantage points around Coolum.
It stood starkly on the horizon behind the flat paddocks and cane fields around Yandina Creek.
The riders avoided the busy oceanfront village at Coolum Beach, instead following a sandy track beside Stumers Creek.
Even though this part of the Sunshine Coast is being rapidly developed, it’s impressive how easy it is to follow tracks through bushland, maintaining a feeling of remoteness and peace.
Total climbing: 3258 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 08:11:42
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The multi-day riders covered about 93 kilometres in just over eight hours including breaks.
Darb and Wayne had to ride an extra 24 kilometres at the start of the day, making a total of about 117 kilometres for them.
Due to its length, this long section rates 8.5 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter.
Main Group – Day 2
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The ride out of Tewantin started around 7am.
The sun was still low in the sky, casting gentle light on the trees.
Darb said “It was a cool start to the day. We followed some nice single tracks through Tewantin National Park, although (like yesterday) there was a lot of water around”
The water was even deeper in Ringtail State Forest. The track looked more like a creek than a fire road.
We’d been riding for more than two hours, and stopped for some morning tea at Boreen Point.
There was no wind. Lake Cootharaba was mirror smooth in the still morning.
A few kilometres after Boreen Point we crossed Kin Kin Creek and entered Yalanga Station – a large cattle property in the Noosa Hinterland.
Although it was officially a gazetted road, in reality Galloways Lane was little more than a couple of tyre tracks passing through the wide paddocks of this large farm.
Perfect mountain biking terrain 🙂
The tyre tracks almost disappeared under long grass.
Galloways Lane had devolved into a faint disturbance in the undergrowth beside a fence line.
It was covered in water in one or two places.
Although we tried to avoid it we ended up getting our feet wet in the knee deep water.
When we reached the Cooloola Way, we stopped for another quick break. Crashing through thick grass and muddy water is hard work 🙂
Darb: It was an easy ride along the Cooloola Way – the road was open and in good condition. Although we had planned to visit it beforehand, we decided not to go to Neebs waterhole because to the amount of flood water that was laying around.
We emerged from the bush near Cooloola Cove and followed the paved road for a few kilometres till we reached Tin Can Bay.
Darb: We were pretty tired when we reached Tin Can Bay.
We had a house to share between all of us.
It was a scramble for the shower, and washing our bikes and clothes.
Justin used the clothes line as a handy makeshift bike stand so he could do a few minor repairs to his bike.
Total climbing: 3270 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 07:46:44
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This section of the ride covered 82 kilometres in about seven and a half hours.
It rates 8 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter.
Main Group – Day 3
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We had an early start out of Tin Can Bay, setting off shortly after 6am.
Tin Can Bay was about ten kilometres from our main route, which meant we spent the first half-hour retracing the route we had taken the previous afternoon.
Just out of Cooloola Cove we had to scramble up a steep rocky slope, which proved un-rideable on the heavy bikes.
The views from the top were impressive.
To the east we could see out towards Rainbow Beach and Fraser Island, where we’d be riding in a few days time.
From here we headed north through Toolara State Forest.
This was the most remote section of the ride – no shops, houses or water for seventy kilometres – but millions of pine trees.
We passed through several different state forests as we headed north.
As we rode, the vegetation changed – from rows of plantation pines to large tracts of native scrub.
After the rugged trails of the last few days, we welcomed long sections of wide, flat smooth dirt roads.
We could travel faster, which meant we’d get to our destination earlier in the day.
Through the trees we could just make out the odd twin peaks of Mount Bauple, twenty-five kilometres away to the west. Bauple would be following us on our left-hand side for much of today.
Even though we were able to ride more quickly due to the easy terrain, the long days of pedaling took their toll. Backsides were sore, legs ached. When we passed a shady spot late in the morning, we jumped at the chance for an early lunch.
We emerged from the easy smooth gravel roads of Tuan Forest about five kilometres from Maryborough.
We crossed the Mary River much earlier in the day than we had anticipated.
Total climbing: 3686 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 08:05:28
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This section of our ride covered about 91 kilometres, and took us eight hours including breaks.
It rates 7.5 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter.
Main Group – Day 4
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The next day involved some riding along busy Maryborough – Hevey Bay Road for half an hour. To avoid the traffic we started early again and stuck to bike paths till it was absolutely necessary to contend with the morning traffic.
It was a relief to turn into Churchill Min Road – a quiet gravel road which would take us to the rail trail.
This road worker got a bit of a surprise when he saw five fat bikes coming down the road towards him.
“Where are you going?”
“Brisbane.”
We received a strange look.
At the start of the rail trail we all posed for an obligatory photo.
I stumbled a bit which made everyone giggle.
The rail trail is a bit wet in several places. It didn’t take long for us to get our feet wet, but we didn’t really mind.
Puddles and wet feet become much less ominous when you don’t worry about them 🙂
“If you go that way you should be able to stay dry.”
We ignored Wayne’s suggestion and went the opposite way.
Squelch. More mud.
We should have listed to Wayne.
Eventually the rugged unmaintained track ended and we found ourselves on a smooth cycle friendly bike path…
…complete with a brand-new bridge.
The Maryborough-Hervey Bay Rail Trail is starting to look quite pleasant.
The old Nikenbah Railway Station has been transformed into a coffee shop.
We parked the bikes, put out our soaking wet shoes and socks to dry, and bought some morning tea.
From here the rail trail was paved. It was effortless to ride.
We could have followed the path all the way into town, but Wayne had more interesting plans.
After riding inland for so long, it was great to finally catch sight of the sea.
We followed another bike path along the shoreline around Point Vernon in search of sand.
At last. Our fat tyres hit the sandy beach.
We’d be doing a lot more riding on sand over the next week. It was a pleasant change.
Hervey Bay is a pretty peaceful place.
Well it is in winter, anyway. I’m sure these beaches must become very busy during summer.
While I’ve ridden a mountain bike on the beach before, I’ve never seen anyone ride a road bike on the beach.
Until now.
“You’re a legend!” I yelled to the bloke on the bike.
I don’t know how he kept those skinny tyres rolling on the soft sand, but he did.
After a while of snaking around various headlands we caught a glimpse of the Urangan Pier.
It’s very long.
Once the railway line had run all the way to the end of the pier, transporting sugar, timber and other produce to ships waiting out in the deep channel.
These days it’s a very long fishing jetty.
“Hey Wayne, this bridge to Fraser Island isn’t finished yet!”
I joked. He smiled.
Total climbing: 632 m
Average temperature: 18.6
Total time: 06:18:34
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We rode 65 kilometres in six and a half hours.
This was an easy flat-ish ride, and was a welcome relief to legs made sore by previous days of big rides.
This section rates six out of ten on the tough-o-meter
Main Group – Day 5
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We needed to leave Hervey Bay shortly after 5am so we could catch the 6:45 ferry from River Heads.
It was cold and dark.
I had no idea of my surroundings – just focusing on the blinking red lights and fluoro jerseys of the riders in front of me.
We arrived at River Heads just before sunrise.
Lots of people were there to either catch the ferry (which was still moored out in the water)
Others came just to photograph this stunning daily event.
It’s amazing to consider the beautiful spectacle that happens every day while most of us sleep.
Wayne’s old Navy buddy, Peter, surprised us by turning up with a thermos full of hot freshly-brewed coffee.
I sipped gratefully on the magic potion while Wayne and Peter discussed Navy business ahead of our epic sea voyage to the island.
Darb says:
This was the day I was looking forward to the most and it didn’t disappoint.
Early and cool start again. Great to meet Peter, and watch the sun come up over fraser.
Fraser Island drew closer as the ferry glided peacefully over the Great Sandy Strait, following a mystical golden path on the water made by the morning sun.
We let the cars disembark first, then rolled the bikes off the ferry, along the wooden jetty and on to the island.
After a few minutes of intense climbing, we looked back down towards the moored ferry through the eucalypts.
The the western coast of the island formed a huge arc of a bay stretching to the north.
We followed the sandy track along the cliff-tops…
…and through the slowly wakening forest.
Lake McKenzie was stunning in the still morning air. Its crystal clear water covered with gentle ripples.
We had arrived in paradise.
As people often do, we decided this would be another good spot for a group photo.
We left McKenzie, following the walking track south through thick rainforest.
Basin Lake was gem.
Adam had told me about this lake earlier, and how impressed he was when he visited it on his solo ride a few years ago.
It’s very small – only a hundred metres across. Like McKenzie, it’s endowed with stunning clear aqua water, but it’s remote. You can’t drive there, you have to either walk or ride.
Justin and Adam hammed it up for the camera.
For the record, no cyclists were harmed (or kicked) while taking this photo.
We followed a walking track from Basin Lake to the Central Station picnic area.
This narrow track was mostly downhill, winding through dense forest.
Wayne says:
The ride down into Central station was the highlight of my trip
Darb says:
The ride down into central station was awesome. The creek at central was magical.
Central Station is on Wangoolba Creek. The clear water runs over a bright sandy creek bed, through shady rainforest.
The effect is stunning.
We rolled the bikes along the boardwalk, soaking up the atmosphere.
This is a special place.
Central Station used to be a hub for the logging industry which operated on the island before it was declared a World-Heritage listed National Park.
It even had its own school.
We relaxed in the picnic shelter and had an early lunch.
The butcher birds eyed us curiously, hoping we’d accidentally drop a few crumbs.
The walking track climbed steeply out of Central Station to a peak named “Dhu’lar Hill”, over 160 metres above the rest of the island.
We had to push the bikes up a couple of steep sections, and slowly mashed the pedals on others. It was hard work.
We stopped briefly at Lake Birrabeen, another perched freshwater lake.
At this point we got a bit lost.
We had planned to follow the walking track around the bottom of another lake, Benaroon, but we lost the track.
Eventually we decided to improvise, and follow the lake shore back to the vehicle track.
As far as detours go, this one was beautiful.
With tired legs, we welcomed the surface of the smooth sandy road. It was much easier to ride than the walking track.
Half an hour before the end we took a short break at Markwells Lookout.
We had almost crossed the island and could now see the ocean.
We were tired, hungry, and happy.
Everyone was thinking about what they’d have for dinner that night.
Each of us finished the day’s ride at our own pace. Some took it quickly, some took a more relaxed pace.
The last few kilometres were mostly downhill.
It was a gentle but fun way to end the day.
We stayed the night at large house in Eurong, and had an “all you can eat” buffet dinner at Eurong Resort.
The price of beers was exorbitant, but they tasted great.
Total climbing: 1605 m
Average temperature: 17.9
Total time: 10:09:26
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We rode 74 kilometres in about ten hours.
During that time we climbed almost 1,200 metres.
I’ll rate it 9 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter.
We did this ride in cool weather. It would be gruelling in summer.
It was a tough long day. I made up some stupid songs to distract myself from my sore legs. It worked for me, although I think my riding buddies got a bit tired of the inane singing by the end of the day.
Stay tuned. Next time you’ll hear about what it’s like to ride a bike on the beach for 250 kilometres into a roaring headwind 🙂
Thanks to Darb, Wayne, Adam, Justin, Paul, Jason, Russel, Calum and Kaye for sharing parts of this wonderful adventure with me.
Thanks also to Darb, Wayne and Justin for sharing your photos and thoughts with me.
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Full Ride Map:
Hi Neil. Just want to thank you for sharing your ‘off the beaten track’ adventures. Myself, my partner & friends used the ‘Main Group Day 1’ route in this blog for the basis of an overnight bikepacking trip.
We stayed at the Oceanview Caravan Park up the hill at Bald Knob. Had to ride up Landsborough/Maleny Road for a bit before making our way up Old Maleny Road to the Park entrance. Old Maleny Road was a gentle lush rainforestry climb.
I added in an extra few kilometres on the return leg including a detour to the Dularcha Tunnel, but pretty much followed your route. The track from Blue Gum Court in the housing estate in Landsborough is no longer. We rode to the end of Blue Gum turned left into White Gum and found our way over a small stream into the forest.
Thanks again.
G’day Denise
I’m so glad you were able to do part of this ride. Thanks for letting us know about it.
The closed track in Blue Gum Court is disappointing – but that’s what often happens: conditions always change.
It’s awesome that so many people are exploring our area by bike 🙂
Take care
Neil