Camp Mountain Railway

As part of my project to explore the site of the old railway line between Ferny Grove and Dayboro I cycled out to Ferny Grove today. Today this is the terminus of the Queensland Railway’s Brisbane to Ferny line.

End of the Line



But before 1955 this line went all the way to Dayboro.

The old railway track rises out of Ferny Grove and winds slowly up Camp Mountain. Even though the gradient is low (less than 5%) the train would have struggled slowly to the crest of the hill, after which it would pick up speed as it rolled down into Camp Mountain Station.
Camp Mountain

In May 1947, disaster struck. After reaching the top of climb at Camp Mountain, one train accelerated too quickly downhill and crashed at this site as the track curved sharply to the left.
Crash SiteCrash Site

16 people were killed as carriages telescoped into each other.

Today it still stands as Queensland’s worst ever rail disaster, and the second most tragic rail disaster in Australia’s history after Granville.

Total distance: 78.19 km
Total climbing: 1340 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 05:38:40
Download file: activity_54798328.gpx
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Wights Mountain Bora Ring

Wights Mountain has one of the best preserved Aboriginal Ceremonial Bora Grounds in our area.

I didn’t have a wide-angled camera, so I had to stitch the photos together. Can you make out the raised ring of earth?

The Bora Grounds consisted of one large ring in which important tribal ceremonies were conducted, and a second secret ring where young initiates were taken to learn “mens business”. The two rings are connected by a sacred pathway approximately 400m long.

As I stood by the large ring, I imagined what it would have been like to stand here hundreds of years ago in the firelight as the tribe sang their songs, and young boys became men – learning secrets handed down for generations.

I felt a sense of loss.

European history is almost clinical. It has been chronicled in books for centuries for anyone to read. Aboriginal history is different. To learn it you needed to have a relationship to the person telling it to you, and a personal commitment to the community. We’ll never know many of the stories and secrets told here – they died with the story tellers.

I’ve only photographed the larger ring. I didn’t think it was respectful to photograph the smaller ring. If you want to see that, you’ll need to go to Wights Mountain yourself!
Bora Ring

Wights Mountain Bora Ring
Here’s a diorama at the Samford Historical Museum depicting how the Bora Ring would have been used by the local Aboriginal people.

Marked TreesMarked TreesMarked Trees
There are several Marked Trees at the Bora Grounds. One of these is obviously a Government Survey Tree (marked with an “R” and a number). I’m not sure whether the other trees are survey trees, or have been “marked” by Aborigines to signify the importance of the site. I’ll update the information when I find out.

Total distance: 78.19 km
Total climbing: 1340 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 05:38:40
Download file: activity_54798328.gpx
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Gavan Newman was here

Survey Tree - Gavan Newman
One morning while I was zooming down Clear Mountain Road on my bicycle at about 70km/h this strange looking tree caught my attention. The next day I came back to have a closer look and discovered it had been “blazed” by a surveyor. Surveyors often used to mark survey points by cutting out a semi-circular patch on the bark, and emblazoning it with survey symbol.

My friend, and local historian, Leith Barter informed me that the tree was recorded on a survey by Gavan Newman in 1938. It was either blazed by him then, or during an earlier survey in 1920.

Gavan Newman was born in Caboolture in 1888 and was registered as a surveyor from 1914 to 1970. In other words he was a surveyor for 56 years.

If you’re interested there’s a copy of part of his original survey plan here:
gavan-newman-survey-1938

In history we often think of explorers embarking on exciting voyages of discovery, but in Australia’s past, much of the “exploration” was done by men of maps – surveyors like Newman:

John Oxley was a surveyor in the Royal Navy. James Cook and Matthew Flinders were arguably the best cartographers of their age.

But if you ever stumble across a blazed survey tree, spare a thought for the unsung explorers like Gavan Newman.
Survey Tree - Gavan Newman

Total distance: 25.73 km
Total climbing: 474 m
Average temperature:
Total time: 01:38:21
Download file: clear+mountain+15+Oct+2010+activity_53006785.gpx
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Samsonvale Railway

I rode out to Mt Samson and Samsonvale again this morning to continue my search for any remnants of the old Railway line, and to check out the Samsonvale Bora Ring.

Follow that train!



The railway line heads north from Mount Samson to Samsonvale. Unfortunately it disappears into the lake now. This is the view looking South towards Mount Samson station. The embankments are still evident.

Mount Samson, D'Aguilar Ranges
South of Mt Samson village the railway line runs under Kunde’s Road. This is the view west towards the unmistakable pyramid shape of Mount Samson in the D’Aguilar ranges.

Towards Kobble
The line continues north of Samsonvale through Gold’s Scrub towards Kobble.

Ancient Sentinel
This dead tree marks the site of the Samsonvale Bora Ring.

Samsonvale Bora Ring
The Samsonvale Bora Ring was an ancient, sacred, ceremonial site used by the Turrbal Aborigines for corroborees and initiation ceremonies. It stands less than a hundred metres from a busy road and is easy to see, although I’m sure most of the people driving by would have no idea about the important events that have transpired here for thousands years.

View Larger Map

Note: My GPS had a glitch between Mt Samson and Samsonvale so I wasn’t able to record those tracks.

Total distance: 44.73 km
Total climbing: 696 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 05:14:04
Download file: activity_53252067.gpx
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Mount Samson Railway

As part of my project to explore the railway line west of lake Samsonvale, Harrison and I rode out to the small village of Mount Samson this morning.

There was a small railway station in the town until 1955 which provided transport to the city and allowed local farmers to get their produce to market.


No train in sight
(A photo of the old Railway Station from the Samford Historical museum)

Harrison stands on the ruins of Mt Samson railway station. The railway line would have passed by on the right of the picture.

Mount Samson Railway
The railway line passed under Kunde’s Road. The cut-away is visible as the line approaches the roadway.

Riding to Mount Samson
Harrison takes a break on the ride out to Mount Samson.

Total distance: 17.74 km
Total climbing: 387 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 02:01:14
Download file: activity_53125348.gpx
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Harrisons Pocket

It was raining heavily this morning, so I decided to postpone my trip out to the old Ferny Grove to Dayboro railway, and instead visit another “place that is no more”.

Harrisons Pocket once was a thriving little farming community almost 10km directly west of Petrie. In this area, the North Pine River twisted around almost three quarters of a circle forming a “pocket”, and Harrisons pocket nestled along the banks of the river at this point.

It had a school, formerly known as Harrisons Pocket Provisional School, then State School, and a Post and Telegraph Office.

You didn’t really drive through, because it was located in a natural cul-de-sac in the river. The way out was over a shallow part of the river about 3km south east, called “Gordon’s Crossing”. This was one of the earliest crossings of the North Pine River, predating Youngs Crossing by at least twenty years. Incidentally, if you’ve ever been on Gordons Crossing Road, now you know what it’s named after.

Sadly, these places are now inundated by the North Pine dam. You can get pretty close by riding through some scrubby bushland along some fire roads, which is what Harrison and I did today in the pouring rain. (I think he was curious about a place that shared the same name as him).

He found the ride very difficult, especially on some of the muddy tracks. To his credit, he persevered and we made it back home safely.

In the map below you can see the original course (in blue) of the North Pine River before it was dammed. The red track is the path that Harrison and I took. You can click on some of the markers on the map to see the location of the post office, the school and Gordon’s Crossing.

Ghost Train



From 1920 to 1955 there used to be a railway line between Ferny Grove and Dayboro. It ran via Camp Mountain, Samford, west of present day Lake Samsonvale and north to a terminus at Dayboro.

This line was the scene of Queensland’s worst rail disaster in 1947, where 16 people were killed and 38 were injured. Even today it ranks as Australia’s second worst rail tragedy after Granville.

There’s not much of a trace of the old line left today except for a short rail-trail between Ferny Grove and Samford, and a Tunnel (affectionately called “The Bat Cave”) which is now used by Queensland University to research bats.

I’ve included the map here, and a link to the KML file here because I intend to visit some of the places on the map over the next few weeks to see if I can find any clues. Also, the map / kml might come in handy for anyone else interested in exploring the area.

I’ve included some scanned copies of old maps I used to plot the route of the line. Many thanks to local historian, Leith Barter, for helping me locate the old maps and providing copies.
1955 Military Map - Part 11955 Military Map - Part 21930s Cadastral Map

The Road to Nowhere

There’s a large dam in our area (The North Pine Dam) which was built in the 1970’s. It has created a lake (Lake Samsonvale) which has flooded a lot of old historical places, including roads, bridges, homesteads, farms and townships.

About a year ago Steve and I visited this area on foot.

My ride today covered a lot of the shoreline of the lake, and I was pleasantly surprised by some of the remnants I found.

One interesting road is Samsonvale Road. As you can see from this map large parts of it are now under several metres of water, but portions of it rise out of the water like a sleepy sea-serpent.

Those above-water portions are hidden away in bushland – unused and overgrown.

These photos are of a road cut-away – where engineers have dug away a hill to smooth the course of the road to reduce its gradient. The only problem these days, apart from the overgrowth, is that if you walk along the road for a hundred metres in either direction you end up in the water.

In a way it’s eerie. Old fence posts and pieces of barbed wire mark old boundaries that are meaningless today.

Strange looking exotic / domestic plants such as umbrella trees spring up in unexpected places – a quaint reminder that this once was a garden, not overgrown bushland.

Who knows? Perhaps one day a few hundred years in the future someone will cut through the overgrowth on our street and find old fence posts, gardens and tracks that once meant something to us.
Road to nowhereRoad to nowhereRoad to nowhere

Total distance: 46.38 km
Total climbing: 852 m
Average temperature: NAN
Total time: 03:59:40
Download file: activity_51299340.gpx
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