The Conondale Range is a beautiful part of the Sunshine Coast Hinterland located between Maleny, Kilcoy, Kenilworth and Jimna. It forms part of the Great Dividing Range and includes rugged mountainous country, serene creeks, thick rainforest and some challenging but fun riding tracks. It forms the headwaters of the gorgeous Mary River, and is the northern most part of the catchment area for the Brisbane River.
This area is part of the traditional country of the Gubbi Gubbi / Kabi aboriginal people. The Bunya Pine (Araucaria Bidwillii) which grows here is sacred to them as a food source and a focus of cultural activities including the triennial Bunya Feast mentioned by Tom Petrie in 1845. In 1842, New South Wales colonial Governor Gipps recognized this, made it illegal to clear any land north of Moreton Bay if it contained Bunyas. This postponed European settlement of the Sunshine Coast hinterland until the new Queensland Goverment repealed the edict in 1860.
It wasn’t until 110 years later in the 1970’s that the Conondale National Park was established after a campaign by conservationist group, The Conondale Range Committee.
To their great credit, the local Gubbi Gubbi / Kabi people were instrumental in setting up the “Great Walk” trail – a popular route for many hikers today.
I’ve ridden in this area before with my friend Eric: In the southern section around Bellthorpe, and further north near Charlie Moreland Park and Booloumba Falls. After both rides, I started wondering if there was a way we could ride through most of the forest from south to north, starting at Bellthorpe, north of Woodford and ending at Charlie Moreland Park near Keniworth. Today we answered that question!
Rather than ride a big loop, we took two cars, parked one near Charlie Moreland Park (a couple of km from Kenilworth). We then drove the other car up to Bellthorpe in the south to start our ride. This meant we could cover a greater distance.
After a harrowing drive up Grigors Road from Conondale, we parked Eric’s 4wd at Bellthorpe near the site of the old Brandons timber mill site – a reminder of the logging history of the area.
We headed north along the road to Jimna. It’s a popular 80km drive for 4wd enthusiasts. Our aim was to follow the road part of the way, then veer North-East into the forest along one of the fire management roads.
Along the way, we enjoyed the stunning views to the west.
After about 45 minutes we reached our intersection and stopped for a quick bit to eat.
From there it was an easy roll down the hill to one of the many pristine creeks that flow through the forest. Since we weren’t in much of a hurry, we decided to have another quick break 🙂
The climb out of the creek crossing took us through a variety of different landscapes including some ancient rainforest, as well as a small hoop pine plantation and some open Eucalyptus forest.
The Fire Management Road overlaps with the “Great Walk” trail for several kilometres. The Great Walk allows hikers to complete the 56km circuit in about 4 days.
As we headed further north, we eventually crossed Booloumba Creek, then met up with Forest Drive – one of the forest roads we had ridden on one of our previous rides.
Rather than follow this busy gravel road back to Charlie Moreland Park, we detoured via another fire management road in order to find another way down the mountain.
The fire management road dropped us out on the main road at Cambroon, and we followed the paved road for a few km back to the end point of the ride on the banks of the beautiful Mary River.
We rode 40km in just over 3 hours (4:15 including leisurely breaks). I burned 3,500kcal and we climbed over 1,100m in vertical ascent. We also enjoyed over 1,500m of descent since we started at a higher point than where we finished. Because of the remote country, and logistical difficulty of setting this ride up, it rates 8 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter. Maybe 7.5 out of 10 if it was part of a well organized ride.
Total distance: 40.88 km Total climbing: 1157 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 04:12:38
In 1986, Archaeologist and Paleoanthropoligist, MJ Morwood wrote a paper entitled “The Archaeolofy of Art: Excavations at Maidenwell and Gatton Shelters, Southeast Queensland”, which describes the results of a research project into social and economic complexity in Aboriginal society. One focus of the project was a rock shelter near Maidenwell which was culturally important to the Waka Waka people, and included rock-art and stone tools.
Eric and I were hoping to find the rock shelter. But more importantly we wanted to experience first-hand this magical place of impossibly placed boulders, wedge-tailed eagles and monoliths carved into amazing shapes by the hands of time.
We started our ride at Maidenwell, and headed west out of town until we found an old dirt track heading into the bush. Bain’s Road is named after Ron Bain who was mustering cattle in the area in 1972 and accidentally encountered the rock shelter. We ditched the bikes part way along this “road” and decided to go for a bit of a wander in the scrub.
The thing that immediately struck us was the way many of the huge boulders were perched in such precarious positions. It looked like some dream-time super human had picked them up and scattered them like play-things.
As we scrambled over rocks and through the lantana, we encountered this amazing Wedge-tailed Eagle’s nest, containing a solitary chick. Mr and Mrs Eagle were aparently out hunting for small dogs and stray children. The nest was perched atop a tree, over ten metres above the ground. But most impressive was the way the eagles had added to the nest each year until it was over two metres in height. I’d never seen such a huge nest before.
While we were trying to find the rock shelter, we kept encountering weird formations that looked like celestial marbles, or an Aboriginal “Stonehenge”.
This one looked uncannily like full-scale replica of a whale.
As we bashed through thick lantana, and scrambled clumsily over rock-faces in our cycling shoes, the rocks formations got stranger and it became obvious why this place is so spiritually important to the Waka Waka.
This one was stunning. How the heck do you end up with 4 boulders, each probably weighing ten tonnes, to sit on top of each other like that. Eric, the geologist, tells me it’s a result of millennia of weathering. My gut feelings suggested more supernatural origins.
Eventually the heat and lantana scratches got a bit much, so we sat in the cool shade of an overhanging boulder and had a short break and a snack.
Although the rock shelter eluded us, we both felt like we had an awe-inspiring experience wandering among these granite monoliths.
The loop we did on the bikes out of Maidenwell was only about 12km. The ride down Bain’s Road and Brooklands Peron Road is a lot of fun on a mountain bike and relatively easy. Some of the other tracks that we visited in the area are on private property, and should not be accessed without permission.
Total distance: 60.81 km Total climbing: 620 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 05:54:26
Maidenwell is a small town in South-East Queensland’s South Burnett district. It’s a two and a half hour journey by car north-west of Brisbane. The town is a gateway to the nearby Bunya Mountains, but is also known for its large privately owned astronomical observatory, and the spectacular Coomba Falls.
My friend, Eric, is planning a social ride in this area in a couple weeks, so I jumped at the chance to ride through it with him today and help him work out the best route.
We started at Yarraman, a beautiful timber town on the D’Aguilar highway. Yarraman is surrounded by Hoop Pine plantation forests. Plantations can sometimes be monotonous places, but not here. Majestic Hoop Pines (Araucaria Cunninghamii) are native to South East Queensland. Even when planted in regimental rows, they are still beautiful serene giants. They don’t cause a toxic monoculture like introduced plantation pines (Pinus Radiata and Pinus Elliotti). So you’re more likely to find healthy and diverse ecosystems in Hoop Pine forests – even plantation forests.
We followed a few forestry trails westward from Yarraman. The roads undulate for about ten or fifteen kilometers, slowly rising to a peak of about 660 metres above sea level. This provides some moderate climbs, with a few enjoyable fast descents down the smooth clay roads, as well as some great views.
As we progressed further, we were able to see the Bunya Mountains to the west.
After working hard to get up some of those hills, I was glad to arrive in Maidenwell around lunch time, and devoured a delicious steak sandwich. It’s a beautiful small country town with a pub, general store / cafe and small war memorial.
It’s also a very friendly place. Jean and Neil Johnston live on a farm nearby. Jean very kindly let Eric and I ride through some of the trails on her farm.
They haven’t had rain in this area for a few months, so the ground is starting to look a bit dusty. Jean says she loves this old Iron Bark tree. They grow very slowly, and this specimen is huge, so Jean thinks it’s at least several centuries old.
The Johnston’s property is home to some spectacular rocky outcrops. Jean told me this whole area is very important to the Wakka Wakka aboriginal people. There are a couple of Bora Rings nearby, and even some ancient rock art. Jean’s neighbor, Max Forsyth has visited the rock art and tells me one of the paintings is of a whale. This is amazing because the ocean is 200km away. Max says he thinks the paintings were done by Aborigines visting from the Hervey Bay area.
Once we left the Johnston property, Eric and I followed a stock route to Coomba falls…
Coomba Falls is a very special place for a number of reasons.
The falls have created deep permanent water holes which serve as refuge from drought for the local plant an animal life.
A unique hybrid variety of the Grass-Tree (Xanthorrhea) grows here. It’s not found anywhere else.
More importantly, these water holes were an important part of the life of the local Wakka Wakka people before European settlement. During extened dry periods with no or little rainfall, they could always rely on the Coomba waterholes to provide fresh water.
Tragically, the falls were the site of a massacre in the 19th century.
European settlers killed hundreds of aborigines here, including women and children. Some reports say that the bodies were thrown into the water hole, and that there are human remains at the bottom of the deep pools.
As a result, local aboriginal people never go here any more. Ironically this place of beauty and refuge is now a place of deep sorrow for them.
From Coomba Falls, Eric and I continued our trek along an old overgrown stock route. We had to scramble over a few fallen trees before eventually making our way back onto the forestry roads.
We took a few different roads through the forest back to Yarraman. In some places, with towering Hoop Pines either side of us, I felt like I was in a natural cathedral.
Eventually the forest opened up as we entered some areas where the timber had been harvested recently. It takes about sixty years to grow a Hoop Pine plantation forest. The area looks bleak after harvesting. It’s sad, but on the positive side, it seems to be reasonably sustainable. The trees are native to the area, and for most of those sixty years we get to enjoy (and ride through) a beautiful forest. I think I can live with that.
We rode 63km in just over 6 hours including breaks. All up we climbed about 1,200m and I burned about 4,000 kcal (about 7 Big Macs).
I’d rate this one 7.5 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter. Take plenty of water and snacks. It’s a long time out in the sun, so make sure you re-apply sunscreen a couple of times during the day.
Total distance: 63.47 km Total climbing: 1284 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 06:11:05
Adare Homestead is a specatuclar rural property which has been owned by the Pinnell family for three generations, and is several kilometres north of Gatton in Queensland’s Lockyer Valley.
The traditional owners of this area are the Kitabul Aboriginal people.
European Explorer, Allan Cunningham first encountered the Kitabul people in 1829 while on an expedition from Ipswich to survey the area. Apparently he was impressed with the strength, and intimidating physical condition of the Kitabul.
A squatter by the name of J.P.Robinson was the first European settler to move to the area, taking up a license for 150,000 acres on what was then called “Laidley’s Plain”.
The Adare Homestead was first established towards the end of the nineteenth century. The grand home was moved there from its original location near lake Clarendon. The original home included seven marble fireplaces and was situated near to the old Cobb and Co route from Ipswich to Toowoomba. In fact you can still see the circular driveway which was built to allow the horse drawn carriages to turn around outside the homestead.
These days, Adare Homestead is better known for Mountainbike Racing. John Pinnell and the folks from The Riders Club at Adare have lovingly built almost 7km of single track around the property which is a pleasure (and a challenge) to ride on.
John very kindly gave his permission for Tony and I to ride there today as part of our larger loop through Lockyer State Forest. I’ve ridden in Lockyer State Forest before, and loved it. So today I wanted to show a friend why I think it’s such a special place.
The trail through the forest up to the summit is a lot of fun with nine creek crossings (you WILL get your feet weet so bring a spare pair of socks), and a tough 5km climb which rises from about 200m above sea level to over 500m above sea level.
The blue skies and clear spring air today meant that we could enjoy some breathtaking views at the top. I think Tony and I both were a bit intimidated by the steep drop-off from this point to the valley below.
At the top of the climb, we had two choices: take the gentle 4wd trail down, or take a steep gnarly “short cut” down. We pondered over our decision for about a millisecond before deciding that “steep and gnarly” beats “gentle” every time.
It’s exhillarating to ride down steep trails. Wallers Road was very rutted in parts, so it was important to chose the right line to make sure we didn’t end up at the bottom of a ditch.
It’s a 9km descent down Wallers Road. The final descent starts out steep and rocky…
It gets steeper and rockier…
…before finally turning into something resembling a fun-park joy ride. Weeeeeee……… 🙂
The sign at the bottom said it all for me. It may look like a warning sign, but it’s actually advertising a fun trail for daredevil mountain bikers.
All up this ride was 38km long. We climbed about 900m and I burned about 2,500 kcal over two and a half hours.
With todays perfect cool weather, I’m rating this one 7 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter. Stronger riders will be able to ride it all. If you’re unsure, you should walk the steeper descents.
Just a reminder: Adare Homestead is private property. That means you can’t go there unless you first contact the owners and get their permission. John Pinnell can be contacted on 0424 057 578.
Total distance: 37.54 km Total climbing: 997 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 03:09:46
Today’s plan was to ride from Beerburrum in the Glasshouse Mountains to Woodford and back, a round trip of about 70km along mostly dirt tracks and gravel roads.
My first stop was an old Bora Ring on Johnston Road. Boras (or “durns”) were important places used by Aborigines for business, dancing and ceremonies. They consisted of a large circular ring of earth connected to another smaller ring situated between 100 and 400 metres away. Only one ring remains of the Beerburrum Bora Grounds. It’s on the edge of a pineapple field, so presumably the second ring was demolished when the farm was built.
I’ve been lucky enough to see a few Bora rings, and am always overwhelmed by strong emotions when I imagine what it must have been like to witness such a colorful and powerrful event so long ago. Perhaps somewhere the echos of those songs and dances are still ringing.
And with the imposing rocky visages of the mystical Glasshouse Mountains staring at me from across farm paddocks or from between gum trees, I made my way up to the lookout so I could enjoy the view.
I wasn’t disappointed. The air was so clear today I could see all the way past brooding Tibrogargan to the sand dunes on Moreton Island.
I’ve ridden to the lookout many times, and would normally head north at this point towards Beerwah. But today I kept going west through state forest and pine plantations towards Woodford.
Woodford is famous for its annual folk festival at “Woodfordia”. It’s a colorful celebration of song, dance and culture that’s normally held in the Christmas – New Year period.
The first European settlers in the area were David, Thomas and John Archer (the Archer Brothers) who built Durundur Station in 1841 near the upper reaches of the Stanley River. As a mountain biker, I am grateful to them because they established the “Old North Road” between their farm at Durundur and Brisbane. I have a lot of fun riding my bike along some of the remnants of that road at Dunlop Lane and Smiths Road in Kurwongbah where it’s still a dirt track.
Today the bustling town of Woodford was an ideal spot to stop for a bite to eat as the half-way point of my journey.
As I rode north out of Woodford, I thought I’d stop and take a quick look at the Stanley River. It starts near Maleny up in the Blackall Range, and flows through Woodford before eventually joining the Brisbane River. Before the Archers built the Old North Road, the only way to Woodford from Brisbane was in a circuitous route west following the Brisbane River and then following the Stanley River north east.
This two metre long Goanna scurried across the track in front of me while I was riding. “Aren’t you gorgeous!!!” I yelled out as I stopped the bike and got the camera out. Unfortunately I think I must have scared him because as I tried to get closer to take the photo, he just climbed higher up the tree.
The road I was following, Dunning Lane, came to an abrupt end near an orchard. My GPS told me to go straight ahead (into a thick clump of trees). I decided to disobey it, and decided to ride through the orchard instead. This took me a couple of km off course, but I was able to correct it by making my way towards a powerline easement on the other side of the orchard. Hopefully someone will be able to point out where I went wrong.
The last part of the trip was around the back of Mount Beerwah under what locals call “The Organ Pipes”. The mountain looks impressive up close.
I got lost a second time in Luttons State Forest – the small forest between Mount Beerwah and Old Gympie Road. There are a number of really steep descents there, and I was unsure of which one to take. The track I eventually rode down was so steep and had such large drop-offs that I had to walk the bike down the hill in some spots. For the rest, I just hung my backside out as far over the rear wheel as I could and hoped for the best. It’s amazing how stable the bike feels when you do that 🙂
On the way back to the car I stopped for one last look at Coonowrin. For the first time he looked almost life-like – a rocky giant looking down at me over his right shoulder. It made me wonder whether the dreamtime legends aren’t just legends and perhaps these mystical mountains are titans made of stone.
I rode 71km in four and a half hours (excluding breaks) with just over 1,000m of ascent, and burned about 3,500kcal.
This one rates 7 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter. There are a few steep-ish hills, but nothing that would prove too difficulte for the average rider. Just take it easy going downhill in Luttons forest!
Total distance: 72.69 km Total climbing: 1133 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 06:00:49
We rode through the Teviot Range today on a big loop through Hardings Paddock, Flinders Plum, Flinders Peak and Undullah.
The traditional owners of this area are the Ugarapul Aboriginal people. Mount Flinders is sacred to them because they believe that the powerful spirit, “Yurrangpul”, lives there, and guards their traditions and sacred places. His name is similar to the local word for green tree frog: “Yurrang”. The green tree frog is the totem of the Ugarapul people.
Hardings Paddock is about an hours drive south-west of Brisbane. Not wanting to start our ride too early on a winters morning, we arrived there about 8.30am.
Our first stop was Goolman Lookout which has great views to the south-west as well as back into Brisbane. Mount Goolman was originally called “Murdoch Peak” by John Oxley in 1824, but it was later renamed “Goolman” after a local indigenous word meaning “Stone Axe”.
The last hundred metres up to the lookout is steep, and we had to push the bikes most of the way – something we’d get used to for most of the day 🙂
The air was quite clear, and the view to the city in the north-east were amazing.
From there we were able to get a good look at Ivorys Rock – a round hill to the south of the lookout.
The track from Goolman Lookout to Flinders PLum picnic ground is well maintained and clearly marked. The only problem is that in parts it’s very steep. On several occasions we had to get off the bikes and push them up the steep hills. The up-side of this is that we we enjoyed riding down the other side. There were warning signs saying “Extreme Caution” before some of the descents, which in mountain biking parlance means it’s going to be a particularly fun ride.
Troy’s bike has been lovingly set up for long-distance touring. I am amazed at the distances this man can cover in one day. So I thought it was quite ironic that he was the only one who suffered a puncture. The white ball-shaped object on the ground near Troy’s feet is actually an inner tube wrapped in an old sock. Troy says a sock is a much better way of stowing a tube compared to a plastic bag because it offers more protection. The last thing you want when changing a tube is to discover your new tube has a hole in it because you didn’t protect it well enough!
After a tough 5km climb across the southern face of Mount Flinders, we eventually made it to the top of Mount Elliott Road, with more amazing views.
From here you can see all the way to Mount Barney and the Border Ranges. From here it’s also a long descent down to Undullah – so we enjoyed a long white-knuckle descent down the steep gravel road.
The bottom of the hill was a great place to chill out, take a break and a bite to eat. It’s also where we parted company with Troy who continued his epic ride to Kerry, south of Beaudesert.
Perhaps the funniest mechanical incident of the day happened when Pete got to the bottom of a steep hill, went to apply some power, and discovered he no longer had a chain. After a quick bit of back tracking, we managed to find the chain, and put it back on with a spare link. (Hint: Don’t leave home without a spare link for your chain!)
We rode northwards into Ripley before finally turning back towards our starting point. Wards Road offered some more great views of Flinders Peak.
We rode about 50km in about 6 hours including breaks (moving time 4 hours). It included almost 1,700m of ascent. I burned just over 3,200 kcal. This would be a tough ride in summer or in wet weather. The dry cool weather of Winter is the best time to do this ride. On the tough-o-meter I rate it 8.5 out of 10.
Total distance: 49.7 km Total climbing: 1729 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 05:57:33
I had the pleasure today to read an old newspaper article from “The Brisbane Courier” which describes what the South Brisbane and West End areas of Brisbane were like in the 1820’s. The story was published in 1930 by someone who, fifty years earlier had made “the acquaintance of an old man – a time- expired convict – who was one of the first contingent of prisoners in 1825 to quit Redcliffe and ascend the Brisbane River in a cutter”. It’s a valuable recollection in that it describes the Paradise that was Brisbane prior to European Settlement.
If, like me, you’ve ever stood in your backyard and wondered what it would have been like three or four hundred years ago, or even earlier, then this article might give you a fleeting glimpse.
When I read this I get a better idea of the grief and anger many indigenous Australians feel about the loss of their land.
If you want, you can click on the image of the newspaper clipping to the left and read it. To make it easier, I’ve included a transcript of the article as well.
RECENT issues of “The Brisbane Courier” have referred with a certain amount of pride to the fact that the P. and O. Coy. have decided to extend the service of their fine steamers to Brisbane. When one considers that less than a century ago men frequently waded across the Brisbane River at various spots between the present site of the Victoria Bridge and Queensport it can be realised that the work of improving the river has been one of great magnitude. Many years ago I was told by a gentleman then engaged in the pilot service at Brisbane that on one occasion at low tide he waded across the river from Queensport to Pinkenba. I had it from an ex-convict that during the years of the convict settlement in Brisbane, that is, after the year 1825, the soldiers when off duty were in the habit – at low tide – of wading about in the shallow pools of water where the Victoria Bridge now stands, and catching large quantities of fish. They caught the fish with their hands, and put them into bags or baskets slung over their backs.
Blue Moon Convolvulaceae by Kate's Photo DiarySacred Kingfisher By Tatters:)
SCENIC BEAUTIES.
It was my experience, more than half a century ago, to make the acquaintance of an old man – a time- expired convict – who was one of the first contingent of prisoners in 1825 to quit Redcliffe and ascend the Brisbane River in a cutter. This man was well educated, as was evidenced by the fragments of old manuscripts which he had written and placed at my disposal for perusal. He exacted from me a promise that I would not divulge the contents of his notes so far as they related to the convict system, but their perusal conveyed particulars of some dreadful incidents in the administration of the penal affairs of the settlement. The writer of those notes was an ardent lover of Nature, and the beauties of the scenery along the banks of the river probably appealed to him in a manner that was lost upon his fellow prisoners. He drew vivid pictures of the scenes of enchanting beauty which unfolded themselves as each successive reach of the river came into view. To use his own words: “It looked as though some race of men had been here before us, and planted this veritable garden of Eden.” The convicts were being conveyed to a prison from which possibly the majority would be released only by death, and yet the gateway to that prison lay between river banks lined with foliage whose beauty it were almost impossible to describe. Skirting the water’s edge for miles on each side of the river was dense vine-clad jungle, festooned with the blue and the purple convolvulus, while on the tidal brink grew the beautiful salt-water lily – its flower white as alabaster, its glorious perfume filling the air with fragrance. Kingfishers – some scarlet breasted, others white, all with backs of azure blue – darted hither and thither, while anon the solitude was disturbed by the raucous laughter of the kookaburra.
Moreton Bay Fig Tree By ~PrescottHoop Pine by Neil Ennis
MAN VERSUS NATURE.
But the conditions of an earthly paradise were not to continue indefinitely, for in the course of time – particularly after the abolition of the convict system, and with the advent of free colonists in the Brisbane area – there came the inevitable day when
“The sound of the axe was heard in the land” –
when the war of devastation – man versus Nature – called by most people the march of progress – began, and the beautiful jungles were swept away. A few giant Moreton Bay fig trees were spared for some years longer. One of these stood in William-street, where now is the residence of Mr. Tom Mulcahy, of the Home Secretary’s Department. Another grew on the present site of the Treasury Buildings. Prior to the erection of these buildings that grand old tree stood sentinel over the Chief Secretary’s office – a small one-storied building, where some of the most important laws in force in Queensland first saw the hand of the Parliamentary draftsman. It was under the shadow of that old tree that Sir Thomas M’Ilwraith – then Premier – signed the historical telegram to Mr. H. M. Chester, police magistrate of Cooktown, instructing him to proceed post haste to New Guinea to hoist the Union Jack on the shores of Port Moresby, and to proclaim the annexation of New Guinea in the name of Great Britain. Incidentally it may be stated that M’Ilwraith’s action was repudiated by the Imperial Government, of which Gladstone was the head.
Maiala Rainforest by Neil EnnisCathedral of Ferns by By Amanda SlaterFraser Island by Halans
NATURE’S FAIRY BOWER.
One of the most enchanting spots within the Brisbane area was an immense jungle in the western portion of South Brisbane. It began at about the spot where the Victoria Bridge now stands, and it followed the course of the river right away to Hill End, along the whole length of what is now the Montague-road. This jungle was a tangled mass of trees, vines, flowering creepers, staghorns, elkhorns, towering scrub palms, giant ferns, and hundreds of other varieties of the fern family, beautiful and rare orchids, and the wild passion flower. While along the river bank were the waterlily in thousands, and the convolvulus of gorgeous hue. What posterity lost by the destruction of this magnificent jungle in all its pristine glory only those who were privileged to see it can form any conception. Here at our very door we had a wealth, a profusion, of botanical beauty which can never be replaced by the hand of man. Too late have we recognised the desirableness of conserving these glorious works of Nature. The Lamington plateau and Mount Tamborine certainly are beauty spots, and rich from a botanic point of view, but it is not every city dweller who can get to them. A few weeks ago there appeared In the “Courier” a letter from the pen of Mr. Fred. W. Taylor, dated North Tamborine, February l8, in which these words occur: “On ascending the mountain (Tamborine) from the Tamborine station one travels through avenues of wonderful scrub, with palm trees waving their proud plumes to the whispering breeze, and there are vast reserves of virgin scrub prolific in orchids, staghorns, &c., on stately forest trees.” These words would have applied with equal truth to the magnificent stretch of primeval foliage at West End had the early residents of Brisbane exercised sufficient foresight to preserve to posterity that magnificent botanical heritage.
GRIM RELICS.
It was during the destruction of this jungle that evidence of the brutal convict system was brought to light, for, amid this primeval grandeur, there were found the skeletons of several human beings, rusted leg-irons still encircling the bones. Obviously the convicts had escaped from the settlement – either by crossing the river on logs or by wading across at low tide. They preferred to die in this veritable garden of Nature rather than continue to live amid all the horrors of the convict system. But while all lovers of Nature must deplore the destruction of these enchanted spots, there is consolation in realising that after all such destruction was the first step in the direction of a free settlement, which displaced the brutal and degrading convict system.
My friend Tony has been holidaying near the beach at Beachmere, so we decided to ride from there to Wildhorse Mountain and back. It involved about 80km of fairly flat trails through the pine plantations heading north towards a spectacular lookout that offered great views of the Glasshouse Mountains.
As its name suggests, Beachmere is right on the beach near where the Caboolture River meets Deception Bay. It’s a quiet place with beautiful views across the water towards Moreton and Bribie Islands.
Just north of Beachmere is the town of Ningi, named after the Ningi-Ningi – a coastal dwelling Aboriginal group. One of the most famous Ningi-Ningi people was Ker Walli, also known as “King Sandy”, who was born in this area in the late 1830’s and was leader of the local Ningi-Ningi from about 1864 until his death in 1900. He was a good friend of local settler Tom Petrie whom he helped in harvesting timber on the Mooloolah River. In fact, Ker Walli thought so highly of Tom, that he carved the letter “P” in a circle on his arm with broken glass, and rubbed some charcoal in it to make a permanent mark.
The pine plantations stretch northwards from here for almost 50km and the forests are criss-crossed by numerous dirt tracks and gravel roads. There are also several strawberry farms, and poultry farms.
We encountered numerous horse riders in the forest. They appeared to be competing in a cross-country horse race. The pace was relaxed enough for most of them to wave and greet us as they rode past.
Recent rain flooded some of the causeways in the forest, and made a few places quite muddy. When I came to this causeway, I decided to scramble along the log in the background in an attempt to keep my feet dry. Tony was a lot tougher than me and just waded through the water. He also used it as an opportunity to wash some of the thick mud out of his chain.
At the half-way point we stopped for a bit to eat at a cafe, then rode up on the only major hill of the ride – Wildhorse Mountain. There’s a lookout at the top with some great views of the Glasshouse Mountains. You can also see out to east Moreton Bay, and can even make out the sky-scrapers in Brisbane to the south.
On the way back we took a short cut along an old dirt road which eventually deteriorated into a cattle track through shoulder-high grass. When we came out the other side we found ourselves in a Nudist Retreat. The members were quite friendly and didn’t seem to mind us passing through. Tony and I decided to keep our gear on, as I imagine it wouldn’t be very comfortable riding a mountain bike naked.
Total distance: 83.97 km Total climbing: 1423 m Average temperature: NAN Total time: 06:27:46
Download file: activity_174781694.gpx More data
This ride was about 83km, with about 500m of vertical ascent. It took about 5 hours, and I burned about 4,000kcal. I’d rate this one about 7 out of 10 on the tough-o-meter. The weather was perfect (low 20’s). In drier weather it would be even easier. The mud made us work a bit harder than we otherwise would have.
